Hiking down into the Grand Canyon And Back Up!

June 3
OK. We took three days and hiked the Grand Canyon!

Backing up - On the first evening that we got to the Grand Canyon it was after sunset and we saw IT for the first time in dusk. Muted blues and purples and darks. But what we saw was HUGE and VERY DEEP– a mile they say. Looking down over the edge carefully to never see the end. Even though I had seen it years ago I was not prepared for the vastness and the depth.

The next day early, getting up at 6:30 to be at the Backcountry Permit office at 7:00 to hopefully get a camping permit for hiking in the Canyon which we had diligently sought unsuccessfully tried to obtain for weeks before. There were people before us also waiting from days with whom we visited and learned many secrets of hiking in the Canyon and the mysterious Permit Process! We got a number for the waiting list for the next day with another chance to get a permit!! After waiting for 1 ½ hours.

After the Backcountry Permit Office, BCPO, visit, we did the visitor things of getting information, hearing Geology talks from the Ranger, including about saving the condor which we see many overhead, and about the mules that help so much in the canyon. We do see lots of deer around the park and Elk!! Very exciting, both seem tame and relaxed with all the tourists casually near. We visit the Visitor Center and other historical buildings on the rim. Hopi House, Kolb Art Studio, the Grand El Tovar Hotel, where we did find internet access and phone reception, both of which we had been missing for awhile. The rest of the day turned to be THUMDERSTORMS AND COLD!! Remember we are at 6850 ft. So it is only in the 70’s on a sunny day. Throw in some cold and rain and you get low 50’s! And with Myia not feeling so good, so we did not go for the hikes we had hoped to.

The second day was another early visit to the BCPO. Another 1 ½ hr wait now with our old friends that we met the day before. And – THE PRIZE – a permit for the campground at the bottom of the Canyon by the Colorado River!! And not only did we get 1, we got 2 nights so we didn’t have to rush back the next day and can relax etc. We had no idea how much we would need this.
The rest of the day we spent all day packing, getting clothes and food together and the lightest possible so as to not take any more weight than necessary. How much do we need to bring? Will we eat all of this and not have to hike it out again?
And praying all the time that all the things laid out on the picnic table and ground of the campsite by the car would not get rained on as they would surely have the day before. The rain did answer our prayers and we made it thru dry. And we got a shower and a carb loaded dinner with an early night so we could arise at 4am to catch our 5am bus for the trailhead at the other end of the park. Whew!

The hike begins tired on the bus to the trailhead. And then the first prize pre-sunrise views. The light is so perfect. And photos of us at the rim. Taking photos of others for them as they start down. For us the Canyon is still a pretty backdrop with no real reality beyond the view. Now we prepare to hike into the view!! Beyond the rim. Exciting, what will we find there. How will it be? How will we be? Can we survive?

AS we head down the steep trail into the open Canyon I start to feel my knees and wonder how I can survive the whole 7.5 miles down hill! Slowly we go and slowly the canyon unfolds before us. So beautiful, with every corner and new view opening up.

The hike goes much faster than expected and we are down at the campsite by 10. And it’s getting hot. The creekside campsites are very welcome though a little cool. Both our knees are hurting and we hobble over to the Phantom Ranch the only thing in the Canyon bottom. And it is air conditioned and as the afternoon wears on with 100 degree heat this means a lot. We read their books, we brought none – too heavy, and drink cold water and coffee till the ranger talk before we hopple down for bed.

We do go down to the Colorado River for sunset. On the way we find a large fig tree that someone has planted by the ranger and enjoyed many wonderful treats. We go the Beach where the white water rafting boats land and the only place where you can get in safely as the current is so strong that lives have been lost. It looks so cool and lovely as we approach. Remember it is 100. And we put our feet in slowly and it is FREEZING, literally. Cold was never that cold! So much for a cool down swim.

The next day was a day off, right? Well that is good except you can’t move. So a day hike is all but out of the question. We try and walk a little up the creek and find a place to sit and relax in the creek, major cool down. On the way back on the trail Myia has another “experience of the snake kind “. In addition to snakes, there is an abundance of all types and colors of lizards, aggressive squirrels whom one must secure your food with as they have been know to eat thru pack, heavy plastic and wood!! This is her second now after seeing a rattler crossing in front of her on Joshua Tree trail. Then repeat of the afternoon before cooling down at Phantom Ranch. Loaded with Tylenol and aspirin Myia is not too bad, at least able to walk! We ponder how we are going to do the 9.5 miles up hill tomorrow. We know we have to get up way early – 4am – to get started and completed before it gets too hot and there is that the big elevation change the steepness.
We go down again to the River for sunset. On the way we meet a German lady who has been studying in Australia physiotherapy (how is that for manifesting what you need!) waiting for the ranger. She has had so many setbacks, she “didn’t have time” to get a permit for the Canyon. (As if she could have!) We let her know that the rangers are trading places today and they may not be here for some time more. She doesn’t know what to do and we tell her she can stay with us if she can’t find the ranger soon. She is very happy to hear that and comes with us down to the river. We gather figs again and feast before the beach. At the beach she works on our legs and knees and teaches Myia a stretch that really relieves the tendon soreness around her knees!! Hallelujah! And she has this new sports adhesive tape that she says helps sore muscles, etc. that she will put on us before we go to sleep! Hallelujah, again!! So as we head to sleep we pray for an easy day tomorrow.

We wake at first light, now 4am and start out. The first part of the trail is mainly flat before we get to the dreaded sand part. That too is OK. Now the sun begins to rise in the Canyon and we understand how important is to get an early start. The Sun is the enemy and so it the altitude. We move along. It will be a long day no matter how you see it - 9.5 miles up and the last 3 miles with high altitude. So it goes – We move along, the trail gets steeper and narrows into the uphill creek, we gain altitude, our breathing comes harder, we get more and more tired.

We finally reach the rest stop at 3 miles from the top. It is now later and the sun is in this creek that we follow. Wetting our shirts and hats as they recommend only provides a little relief. And it feels like we only make a little progress before the combination of uphill and altitude makes us stop for shortness of breath. The hike up Haleakala was bad but this is worse and we wonder if it will ever end!! But the one step after another seems to make progress and we now see the trail of smart dressed and freshly showered tourists with fancy shoes coming down from above and have faith that the top is near.

It proves so and we come out without any fanfare, they don’t seem to know what we have done!!. We still have to take the park shuttle to our car! Slowly we pull ourselves together, it is only 2pm! The rest of the day we spend showering, resting, emailing, and after early dinner - Sleep.

We did it! WOW ! and SORE. a long a difficult trip and wonderful.